哲学社会科学版
陕西师范大学学报(哲学社会科学版)
历史学研究
中国古代烹饪饮食文化论
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王宁
(北京师范大学 文学院, 北京 100875)
王宁,女,浙江海宁人,北京师范大学资深教授,博士研究生导师。
摘要:
在人类文明的发展中,烹饪饮食是最重要的文化表现形态,且在发展中逐渐产生了民族地域的特异性。中国人在烹饪饮食领域的创造,表现在食材的丰富、烹饪手法的多样、不同菜系口味之纷繁、果腹之外品尝、养生、治疗、交际等功能的多样,在世界上具有独一无二的显著特性。烹饪和饮食从口味到心享,已经不仅是物质文明,而且有了深厚的精神内涵。从烹与食统一的宏观或中观角度看,“和”“节”“范”是中华饮食文化的三个优秀传统。“和”体现制作方面的总特点,要求参与烹饪的诸多要素如水与火,各种主原料、佐料、调料,主食与副食适中与平衡,达到整体的最佳效应,目的是既可口,又养身。“节”是食用方面的总特点,古代的宫廷和士大夫靠“礼”来达到“节”的目的。“齐”从烹制来说就是配方,与“范”即标准联系在一起。时代发展了,中国饮食文化传统的继承,也要剔除其中僵化的因素,不断更新。
关键词:
中华烹饪饮食; 烹饪饮食文化; 烹饪饮食标准
收稿日期:
2021-08-30
中图分类号:
K892.25
文献标识码:
A
文章编号:
1672-4283(2021)06-0048-09
基金项目:
Doi:
10.15983/j.cnki.sxss.2021.1111
The Cuisine and Food Culture of Ancient China
WANG Ning
(School of Language and Literature, Beijing Normal University, Beijing 100875)
Abstract:
Cuisine and food are the primary manifestations of culture, which have been endowed with national and regional characteristics in the development of human civilization.The Chinese are creative in cuisine and food, and have incorporated rich ingredients, assorted cooking methods, and different cuisine styles into this realm, and have vested cuisine and food with multiple functions ranging from satisfying hunger to degustation, health preservation, therapy, and communication. Chinese cuisine and food thus occupy a unique place in the world for focusing on both the flavor in the mouth and the enjoyment in the heart, which is a representation of both material civilization and spiritual connotation. To integrate cuisine and food from a macroscopic or mesoscopic perspective, “harmony” “moderation” and “recipe” are three keywords of Chinese food culture. “Harmony”, as a characteristic of the cooking process, requires, for the best result of palatable and healthy purpose, a balance among all factors including water and heat control, the matching of basic materials with condiment and seasoning, and the combination of main course with side order. “Moderation” regulates the process of consumption, which is realized via etiquette among scholarofficials and in the court of ancient China. “Integration” refers to the formulating of recipe, which is closely related to the norms and standards of Chinese cuisine.With the development of the times,the cuisine and food culture of ancient China should also eliminate the rigid elements and keep updating.
KeyWords:
Chinese cuisine and food; cuisine and food culture; standards of cuisine and food